Riding the Rails

We took our first train ride today on the famed Indian Railway. I wish I could say I did it gracefully. Alas the unbearable heat, cranky children and the odd anxiety of finding the right car got the best of me.

The train system in India is vast and complicated, and yet in many ways surprisingly efficient. The cars are comfortable and clean, and snack vendors and chai wallahs (tea vendors) keep you fed and caffeinated. The downside of the Indian railway system is that while all the cars are clearly marked, the order that the cars will arrive in is anyone’s guess. So it becomes necessary to stand in the middle on the platform, preferably near the middle, watch the cars pass and then hurry in the direction of your car. The other staggering negative is that there are no formal announcements at any of the stops. So you must know the approximate time of your arrival and watch for your stop – very unnerving when it is your first time to a destination.

We had an enormous suitcase – two if you count Erin’s, a diaper bag, camera bag, laptop and two children thus making quick mobility limited. So as the train approached I watched anxiously for the Third Class A/C cars to pass by. Luckily for us they stopped near the middle of the train, and thus a short walk from our lookout. As we rushed aboard, the car was cool and welcoming, the man blocking the first set of empty berths was not. He smiled politely and pointed us to the next set of berths, which were covered in blankets, food wrappers and even a pair of socks! I became horribly panicked and confused as we tried in earnest to communicate. Eli, hot tired and hungry wailed uncharacteristically.

We were getting no where with this gentleman who was saving the seats for his friends and my anxiety was only growing. In a sudden fit of hot anxious disgust I whined: “I just want to sit down! I don’t care where!”

To which the unflappable Erin smiled and soothingly said: “OK, we’ll sit here. It will be fine, we’ll just move this stuff.” She set to work moving the blankets, trash and socks while Pat stowed the luggage. After which we happily took up residence in our new berth. The cold air quickly calmed me. Eli was pacified by a snack, and before long Evan fell fast asleep. After we enjoyed a hot cup of tea I was able to have a good laugh at my own foolishness, and decided maybe this train stuff is not so bad.